Timestamp
2070 super has been repasted and runs chilly, EVGA 2070 has been deep cleaned and repasted, MSI 2070 has had a good air dusting and looks great.
laptop ram and Wi-Fi card were pulled from my current laptop and work great, if youre running on one stick of 8gb, let me tell you its totally worth an upgrade!
The ITX Mini pc has the following specs, i3-10100, 16gb 2400mhz ram, Asrock B-460 itx plus wifi motherboard, 2 TB Western Digital SATA M.2 SSD, Noctua Low Profile cooler, Radeon 7570 HD 1GB ddr5 gpu, 300w PSU. Has a decent list of playable titles, here's the list of some 1080p and 720p benchmarks -- Benchmarks
stock intel coolers have never been used and still of stock thermal paste
Motherboard , RAM , GPUs , MiniPc w/CPUtimestamp , LaptopParts , Coolers&Fan

(2x) Intel Stock Cooler	un-opened lga 1200	$5/$5 plus shipping
Gigabyte 2070 Super	Re-pasted, runs chilly	$220/$235 shipped
EVGA 2070	deep cleaned and re-pasted	$200/$210 shipped
Msi 2070 Ventus	dusted, looks great	$190/$200 shipped
Asus Tuf X570 Plus Wi-Fi	works great, I/O shield, no box	$100/$115 shipped
ITX Mini PC	nice little itx pc, gaming or media box or house use capable	$315/$335 shipped
(2x16gb) 32gb Trident Z RGB 3200mhz	work great, 3200 mhz cl16	$60/$65 shipped
8gb 3200mhz stick samsung laptop ram	pulled from working laptop	$15/$18 shipped
Laptop wifi 6 card	pulled form working laptop	$5/$5 plus shipping
Yellow Asia Horse Fan	if you have the hub that comes with this fan will be a good addition, looks surprisingly good for a cheap fan	$1/free with anything or pay shipping

[email protected] ---------------------- When school grades need to be changed, students will usually make the mistake of hiring someone who cannot fix their grades. After all, students do not have the information or resources to hack because they need to know what kind of software to use for hacking. It is appropriate to hire a specialist to complete the school grade in such cases.

A SHORT BRIEF OF HOW TO HACK SCHOOL GRADES

An ethical hacker should consider that you can effectively hack your student portal and change your grades. Blackboard hacking techniques to change your grades, Blackboards are also known as a Learning Management System (LMS).
It is simply a tool that schools and universities typically use as part of their facilities to provide materials to their students. It is similarly used to store student grades as well as assignment information.
Blackboard hacking should be possible through two types of hacking methods: hacking a school website and changing your grades.

Get Admin Password To Hack Grades

One of the characteristics of a hacker is to use this method to hack and change your school grades. To use this type of support, you need to hire a hacker to change your grade. Most school grades are stored online and you need some hacking techniques to achieve the desired results.
Once you get an admin password, you need security to get access and an admin facility to set up a connection to the school database. A professional hacker uses trials and errors to track login information, encryption keys, a secret database, website pages.
An ethical hacker can work through all the predictable keywords and many passwords to get the right admin login. This is a tedious assignment, yet a professional hacker has a repository of passwords, leaking the data they set up as a repository of password archives.

Hacker Tactics To Change Your Grades On School Websites

For security reasons, we can outline the methods used by hackers. This may be a way for many schools and colleges to stop this attack. For hacking college databases online, the hacking experience of expert hackers is a significant parameter in the local area.
Professional hacker administration solves all hacking requests. DDOS can be used to obtain access information without identifying areas of application where:

• Hack canvas
• To hack the blackboard
• To hack university servers, and
• To hack many other security websites
• Hackers have advanced software to get secretly to a security website college portal online easily.

Hacking Tool - Keylogger

This is an easy way to hack into the university system. If you want to choose between the different hacking strategies to hack your grades and consider that each is predictable, you need to make a clear decision about keylogger hacking.
Keyloggers are important for ethical hacking practice and the most straightforward of all methods of grade hacking. This strategy targets less hanging organic products that are easier to control when changing your grade.

Effective tool for using grade hacking

What hackers do is introduce keylogger software like Keylogger on the target PC. An official who regularly monitors the university database as a feature of his daily profession should use his PC. First, the software is installed, and then it records every keystroke when using the keyboard.
When your educator comes to PC, he should be given login qualifications in the system. In addition, that is the target of hackers. Keylogger software will record keystrokes and, at the same time, login certification. The hacker then uses this information to access the system and modify your college grade.

HACKING SCHOOL WEBSITES AND CHANGING YOUR GRADES

Hackers can usually change your school's grade without identifying the university, which will be very permanent. Most hull systems use blackboards that ethical hackers can hack. Who can give you current methods to hack your grades?
The course/examination officer should not be aware that his record has been compromised and used to alter it to implement this hacking method.

THE MOST EFFECTIVE WAY TO HACK A COLLEGE WEBSITE IS TO CHANGE THE GRADE

When hacking, you need to bypass the entire security system of your school database. Similarly, it would help if you got close to their firewall staff and the security of the LMS software introduced in your school system, which is the blackboard for this situation. A professional hacker knows exactly what to do, unlike new students who try to hack without any experience.
They carry out that tail hacking behind. If someone is unaware of the cycle during regular hacking, they may neglect to hide their IP address and follow up using it later.

How To Change Your Grades Online Forever

When hacking, one requirement is to use VPNs, hide their IP address, and leave other relevant data on the website page. Hiring ethical hackers to hack your university website will save you the hassle of doing it without any help. You can discover different types of hackers, but a black hat hacker is what you are looking for.
When hiring a hacker to help you change your school grades, make sure they have some information about their strategy and that they leave no stone unturned to link to you. It is equally important not to make big improvements in your grades. The insignificant changes are undoubted to take a more dangerous note.
Don't try to change someone else's grade when you change. Thus, it can raise further suspicions and be found or could result in severe fines or even imprisonment.

CONCLUSION

Hacking sometimes becomes a necessity, and it should be possible to change grades through temporary changes that last forever will eventually require an experienced and trained professional.
Hiring [email protected] make it easy to change grades forever and saves you the hassle of falling flat or retaking the course.

I have been trying to fix this for ages and no result. I userstand some some fps drops might be normal when streaming but 100fps seems a bit extreme considering OBS is suppposed to be using CPU as encoder. I play most games at 250fps at 2560x1440 resolution. OBS uses less than 20% of CPU, and the overall CPU usage is 50% at most. The RAM is also not used that much. Since I use higher bitrate for recording, I can't even enjoy the game if I turn of replay buffer. Is this the best I can get from OBS? I appreciate any tips.
**Here is the PC Specs:**MoBo: B550 Vision D-P
CPU:AMD Ryzen 9 5900x
GPU: Gigabyte RTX 3080ti
RAM: 4x Corsair Dominator Platinum 8GB DDR4 3600MHz
Storage: Samsung 980 PRO M.2 NVMe SSD 1TB
PSU: Corsair RM850x
Here is my streaming setting:
Base canvas: 2560x1440
output: 1920x1080
Downscale filter: LanczosCommon FPS Values: 60Encoder: x264
Rate control: CBR
Bitrate: 6000 Kbps
CPU preset: veryfast
Profile: high
​
Edit: some extra info. I get a inconsistent 110fps average when encoding.This is more than 100fps dropping in-game.There are no skipped frame. I get some very low percentage of skipped fram due to rendering/encoding lag (I don't remember which one exactly by it's less than 0.5% if I restart my pc before starting the stream. For some reason I get up to 3% skipped frames when I don't restart the PC beforehands but that's not the main issue for me. I will upload a log file later tonight.

Why do PC users need VPN?

• PC users may choose to use VPNs for increased privacy and security while browsing the internet and using online services.
• VPNs encrypt internet traffic, protecting personal and financial information from hackers and other malicious actors who may attempt to intercept or steal sensitive data.
• Some countries may censor or restrict access to certain websites and online services, and using a VPN can help users bypass these restrictions and access content from anywhere in the world.
• For PC users who frequently use public Wi-Fi networks, such as those found in coffee shops or airports, using a VPN can help protect against eavesdropping and other forms of cybercrime that are more prevalent on unsecured networks.
• VPNs can also help PC users avoid location-based price discrimination, where certain services or products may be offered at different prices based on the user's geographic location.
• For users who frequently travel, using a VPN can help ensure secure and private access to online services and data, even when using public Wi-Fi networks or accessing content from countries with restrictive internet policies.
• Some PC users may also use VPNs to access region-restricted online gaming services or to take advantage of lower prices or promotions offered in other countries.

Best VPN For PC User : CovermeVPN Website

CovermeVPN is a reliable and affordable VPN service that helps you stay anonymous and secure online. With CovermeVPN, PC users get the best services at a cheaper rate. The key features of CovermeVPN is given below :

• Browse The Internet Anonymously And Privately
• Encrypt Your Internet Traffic
• No Log Policy
• Kill Switch Mood
• Unblock Websites And Access Geo-Restricted Content
• Prevent ISP From Tracking Your Online Activities
• Protect your online privacy and security
• Dedicated IPs In Six Countries such as United States, United Kingdom ,Canada, Singapore, Germany, Australia
• 5 Simultaneous Connections in your device.
• 7 Days Money Back Guarantee

When I start my PC I get all the way to the lock screen with the date and time. Once I press a key to get to the login screen the animation plays (the displayed items move up) but then they instantly reset to their original position. I can not get to the login screen and pressing CTRL+ALT+DEL has no effect either.
By cutting power 3 times in a row (about 3 times anyway, it's really inconsistent), I can access the recovery menu. Booting into safe mode results in a black screen with a cursor, key combinations do nothing there also. From the recovery menu I can also launch a cmd window which I was instructed to reset a certain folder from - only I can't remember which folder it was. This has been going on for a couple of days and I had never heard of that folder before, plus it was ChatGPT which recommended it and I currently don't have access to my history :D It was not any of the following: profile folder, AppData, WinSxS, Windows Update folder, DriverStore folder.
To access some data I needed, I set up a Windows PE installation on a flash drive. I've never used it before and might've done something wrong, but when I booted to it I also only got a cmd window. I expected a a basic UI, but this didn't help me. So I did what I should've done before WinPE anyway and set up a bootable Ubuntu flash drive. With this I was able to access all installed drives.
Until then I suspected that my boot drive (Samsung 970 Evo M.2) had failed, so I was surprised to be able to access it seemingly without problems. I'm neither experienced with corrupted windows installations nor failing/failed hard drives though, so I'm not sure whether this can be ruled out just because I can access the drive.
I'm not very worried about any data being lost because the data that matters is on a separate drive (the one I already retrieved some from). I only care about getting my PC to work again and not breaking anything that is not yet broken by trying the wrong things.
My next play would be to reinstall windows from the recovery menu. I haven't tried that yet because 1. I'm unsure what would happen if the drive is physically broken and 2. I'm worried about the data on my other drives. About 2.: can I just unplug the drives that have nothing to do with the windows installation and plug them back in once I fixed it?
What other actions would you recommend to try? Any ideas what may be causing the issue originally? Some of my parts do approach an age (see below) where them failing would be expected, but I'm not sure how to pinpoint which one from what I currently know. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thank you for taking the time to read this! Cheers :)
​
I should also mention: Over the past ~year I had regular blue screens (on avg about once per day, 98% of the time it happened when waking up from hibernation), usually with stop codes like PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA or FLTMGR.SYS. From my research this suggests drivers, hard drives or RAM which I did all the appropriate actions for: look for updates (none ever found except GPU), run CHKDSK, run memtest. No problems were ever found so I just ended up running with it. No blue screen happened right before the above problem started, though.
​
My specs: MSI B350 PC MATE AMD So.AM4 Dual Channel DDR4 ATX Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6GHz Asus DUAL GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 2x8GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4-2400 500GB Samsung 970 Evo M.2 (boot drive) 2000GB Tos​hiba DT01A​CA200 PNY 240GB SSD 2x Kingston A400 240GB SSD
All parts are about 4.5yrs old, except the Samsung 970 and the Kingston SSDs which are about 3 yrs old. Don't judge my 5 hard drives, there was a special offer! :D

Hi, so, hardware and BIOS stuff are outside my wheel-house for the most part so bare with me.
About a month ago I've been consistantly getting CPU Fan error when starting up my PC. My case has one CHA fan which controls a fan at the back and 3 fans at the front of the case and then the CPU fan which is a big chunky boy connected to the motherboard.
Sometimes if I leave the PC in the bios for long enough the CPU fan will start up on its own (but very rarely) and usually I have to turn off, unplug, unplug the 4 pin fan from the motherboard, plug it back in, turn it on and it'll immediately start with the PC starting no problem and will continue to be on as it should until I turn it off.
As far as I know everything is getting enough voltage and there's nothing physically wrong with the fan. I could set the BIOS to ignore CPU fan monitoring but theres no guarentee it would actually turn on if I did that- it'd just bypass the CPU error. I also have a uh, AIO Pump pin on the motherboard I could switch the fan to but I'm not sure what issues that could cause.
Any input (please dumb it down) would be really great. Here are the specs (some might be irrelevent)
Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz (Kaby Lake) Socket LGA1151 Processor
Asus Prime Z270-K Intel Z270 (Socket 1151) DDR4 ATX Motherboard
32GB RAM
Geforce 3080 10GB
PSU is 1.2 volts and is using 1.1 (you might have to decphier that I'm going off memory)
Tysm, happy to answer anything to the best of my abilities.

Hi, so, hardware and BIOS stuff are outside my wheel-house for the most part so bare with me.
About a month ago I've been consistantly getting CPU Fan error when starting up my PC. My case has one CHA fan which controls a fan at the back and 3 fans at the front of the case and then the CPU fan which is a big chunky boy connected to the motherboard.
Sometimes if I leave the PC in the bios for long enough the CPU fan will start up on its own (but very rarely) and usually I have to turn off, unplug, unplug the 4 pin fan from the motherboard, plug it back in, turn it on and it'll immediately start with the PC starting no problem and will continue to be on as it should until I turn it off.
As far as I know everything is getting enough voltage and there's nothing physically wrong with the fan. I could set the BIOS to ignore CPU fan monitoring but theres no guarentee it would actually turn on if I did that- it'd just bypass the CPU error. I also have a uh, AIO Pump pin on the motherboard I could switch the fan to but I'm not sure what issues that could cause.
Any input (please dumb it down) would be really great. Here are the specs (some might be irrelevent)
Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz (Kaby Lake) Socket LGA1151 Processor
Asus Prime Z270-K Intel Z270 (Socket 1151) DDR4 ATX Motherboard
32GB RAM
Geforce 3080 10GB
PSU is 1.2 volts and is using 1.1 (you might have to decphier that I'm going off memory)
Tysm, happy to answer anything to the best of my abilities.

What will you be doing with this PC? Be as specific as possible, and include specific games or programs you will be using.

Primary use is gaming. 144hz ultra wide 21:9 ratio. Games ranging from super modded Skyrim, to new AAA titles. Will also be using a wired VR headset with this

What is your maximum budget before rebates/shipping/taxes?

$5000 CAD

When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Note: beyond a week or two from today means any build you receive will be out of date when you want to buy.

In the next week or two

What, exactly, do you need included in the budget? (ToweOS/monitokeyboard/mouse/etc)

A new computer tower and internal components (cpu/gpu/memory/fans/cooler etc)

Which country (and state/province) will you be purchasing the parts in? If you're in US, do you have access to a Microcenter location?

Canads/British Columbia. Access to memory Express + Canada computers

If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? Brands and models are appreciated.

Corsair k70 keyboard. Logitech hero mouse + razer mouse. Ultra wide monitors

Will you be overclocking? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line? CPU and/or GPU?

Overclock CPU and eventually GPU

Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSD, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc)

Ideally a 500gb or so drive for operating system and an additional 1-2 NVME drives for games ( currently using 500gb NVME and 2x 1tb Samsung 970).

What type of network connectivity do you need? (Wired and/or WiFi) If WiFi is needed and you would like to find the fastest match for your wireless router, please list any specifics.

WiFi is a bonus

Do you have any specific case preferences (Size like ITX/microATX/mid-towefull-tower, styles, colors, window or not, LED lighting, etc), or a particular color theme preference for the components?

Black. Minimal branding. They like the look of the hyte y60 and lian li evo
No nzxt cases (bad history/CS support on old build)

Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? If you do need one included, do you have a preference?

No

this is going to be a graduation gift and will be built together with someone learning a new build

I've been having a non stop flash when trying to PC game in 4k with my 4080 for months now. Case has been open for 3 months with them giving me the runaround (your case is still being reviewed BS). What can I do? Should I sell the damn thing? It's annoying.

• Yes the cable is a legit 4k 120hz cable.
• I've switched the PC to my Samsung TV with no issues.
• My other PC with a 4090 does the same thing on the TCL and doesn't have an issue with the Samsung.

I'm sure getting a lawyer would be counterproductive?

Hi all, I am relatively new to PC, built mine last year and has been fantastic so far. However recently I'm having issues with download speeds and I can't figure out the cause for the life of me. As I said I am new to this so my knowledge is relatively limited, however I have done a significant amount of research and troubleshooting and am coming up blank. I believe this post is within this sub's rules but please let me know if I'm doing anythign wrong. :)
In the last few weeks my downloads on all applications on my PC are almost always capped at 1MBps. This is only an issue on my PC, all other devices on my network work at expected speeds. What's even more strange (and why I think it's an issue with my PC) is that my speedtests are where I expect them to be, in the range of 60-80Mbps, but still my downloads seem to be capped at 1MBps, when I normally expect them to be around 7-10MBps.
More details:

• Here's a speedtest and active download right now. I'm using Steam just to show the speeds, the same applies with every other application I've tried.. Xbox, EA Play, Google Chrome, you name it. Even streaming video through Chrome is at a low quality. You'll also note it shows a peak of 3.6MBps, often the download will start higher and drop down to 1MBps almost immediately.
• At the time of writing/when the above screenshots were taken, I have 90GB free on a 930GB hard drive (Samsung SSD 970 Evo Plus 1TB). However I was experiencing the same issues with roughly 200GB free earlier in the week
• I understand the difference between Mbps and MBps
• My plan is 100/20Mbps with unlimited downloads
• My PC is connected by LAN (don't have a wireless card). I will note I am using a powerline adapter (this one) and while I know this isn't ideal, it's the only real option in my apartment. Additionally, this is the setup I have used since day 1 with no issues, and my PS5 is also connected to the same adapter and is having no issues.
• I have tested every other device I can think of on my network (PS5 over LAN through same adapter, work PC, Nintendo Switch and mobile phone over Wifi), all are getting expected download speeds (around 7-12MBps)

Would really appreciate any advice here, it's getting beyond frustrating. Thanks!

1. What will you be doing with this PC? Be as specific as possible, and include specific games (ex: resolution, FPS, settings) or programs you will be using.

• Getting this pc for school work and occasional games, i mostly play FPS like apex Legneds, etc, and AAA games. ResouResolutionltion would be 1440 p and medium settings as i want to maximize the span for pc to last a long time

2. What is your maximum PRE-TAX budget before rebates and shipping?

• $2500

3. When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Note: beyond a week or two from today means any build you receive will be out of date when you want to buy.

• planning to in mid-April, waiting for x3d cards

4. What, exactly, do you need included in the budget? (ex: toweOS/monitokeyboard/mouse/etc)

• OS, Tower

5. If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? How old are they? Brands and models are appreciated.

• Resuing Monitor, Keyboard, headset, mouse

6. Will you be overclocking (ex: CPU/GPU/RAM)? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line?

• no

7. Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSDs, mass HDDs, Wi-Fi / Bluetooth, VR, VirtualLink, tensor cores, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc.)

• Bluetooth would be nice

8. Do you have any specific case preferences (ex: mITX/mATX/mid-towefull-tower sizes, styles, colours, window or not, LED lighting, etc.), or a particular color theme preference for the components?

• not a fan of RGB, prefer performance over it,

9. Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? Note: some post-secondary students can get Windows 10 for free at OnTheHub or through their school's IT software distribution department.

• Yes

10. Will you be upgrading this PC in the future (ie: will you swap out better parts later on or will you build an entirely new tower later)? If so, when?

• yes but not in like 4 - 5 years

11. Do you have a brand preference? (ex: AMD/Intel for CPUs, AMD/NVIDIA for video cards, etc.)

• AMD for CPU

12. What are the specs of your old PC / laptop? Do you want to see if it can be upgraded instead? If so, paste its build from PCPartPicker here.

• Older laptop had R9 5900 hx and rtx 3060

13. Extra info or particulars:

• Replace this text with answer.

This is the build i was thinking to get and please suggest fans for the case. If it is in my budget, i can switch to AIO for CPU.Thanks
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/txpYsL)
​
TypeItemPrice
:----:----:----
**CPU** [AMD Ryzen 7 7700X 4.5 GHz 8-Core Processor](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/WfqPxamd-ryzen-7-7700x-45-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000591wof) $444.00 @ Canada Computers
**CPU Cooler** [Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/84MTwP/noctua-nh-d15-chromaxblack-8252-cfm-cpu-cooler-nh-d15-chromaxblack) $139.94 @ Amazon Canada
**Motherboard** [Gigabyte B650 AORUS ELITE AX ATX AM5 Motherboard](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/WBwypg/gigabyte-b650-aorus-elite-ax-atx-am5-motherboard-b650-aorus-elite-ax) $299.99 @ Canada Computers
**Memory** [Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/PNKKHx/corsair-vengeance-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl36-memory-cmk32gx5m2d6000z36) $167.88 @ Canada Computers
**Storage** [Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/DDWBD3/samsung-980-pro-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v8p1t0bam) $144.94 @ shopRBC
**Video Card** [Gigabyte GAMING OC Radeon RX 6750 XT 12 GB Video Card](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/RbYmP6/gigabyte-radeon-rx-6750-xt-12-gb-gaming-oc-video-card-gv-r675xtgaming-oc-12gd) $584.29 @ Amazon Canada
**Case** [Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/bCYQzy/corsair-4000d-airflow-atx-mid-tower-case-cc-9011200-ww) $119.99 @ Best Buy Canada
**Power Supply** [Corsair RM850x (2021) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/26rRsY/corsair-rm850x-2021-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020200-na) $179.50 @ Vuugo
*Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts*
**Total** **$2080.53**
Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2023-03-22 01:42 EDT-0400

Hi all, within the past month or so I have been experiencing some stutters when playing rocket league on my PC. Had been perfect for a few years now with no issue. After usually 4 games or so, the stutter will occur in the middle of a game and most times I have a significant drop in frames until the game concludes. At the start of the next game it will be back to normal, then after a few minutes it will happen all over again. Most of my setting are set to high quality, but I have always had these setting and never any problems. I have capped at 144hz. Will post background info and specs down below.
Background info: I recently received a new m.2 SSD and tried installing it. The other SSD slot on the mobo was covered by GPU, so I tried moving it but broke the PCIE clip so I moved the SSD to the bottom slot. I moved the install to the new 2TB SSD and this is about when I noticed the issue. This other PCIE slot had decreased airflow, so I figured that could cause the stutter. Therefore I moved the GPU to the original slot and added a support to make up for the broken clip. The problem persists. I believe the thermals are solid, and my components aren't necessarily too out dated. I have tried most things such as reinstalling, updating drivers, etc.
Specs and Thermals:
CPU- Intel i7 10700KF (Max: 68 C)
GPU - nvidia RTX 2070 Super (Max: 66C)
SSD1- Samsung SSD 970 Evo 1TB (Max: 71C)
SSD2- Samsung SSD 970 Evo Plus 2TB (Max: 42C)
Any ideas or suggestions would be very helpful, thanks!

I have researched several posts in this forum and currently considering RX 6700 XT as an upgrade from my current PowerColor RX 570 Red Dragon 4GB (Not a final decision, other suggestions are welcome, I have also considered RTX 3070 before).
Here are my current PC builds (Bought it around October 2020, except for monitors and storages which varies before and after October 2020): PCPartPicker Part List

Type	Item	Price
CPU	AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor (AMD stock fan, Wraith Cooler)	Purchased For $230.00
Motherboard	MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard	Purchased For $130.00
Memory	Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory	Purchased For $85.00
Memory	Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory	Purchased For $85.00
Storage	ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 256 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive	Purchased For $60.00
Storage	Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive	Purchased For $140.00
Storage	Seagate FireCuda 1 TB 2.5" 5400 RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive	Purchased For $135.00
Video Card	PowerColor Red Dragon Radeon RX 570 4 GB Video Card	Purchased For $150.00
Case	NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case (Matte Black)	Purchased For $85.00
Power Supply	SeaSonic M12II 620 W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply	Purchased For $83.00
Case Fan	ID-COOLING WF-14025 76.8 CFM 140 mm Fan (Black)	Purchased For $8.00
Case Fan	ID-COOLING WF-14025 76.8 CFM 140 mm Fan (Black)	Purchased For $8.00
Monitor	LG 22MK430H-B 21.5" 1920 x 1080 75 Hz Monitor	Purchased For $100.00
Monitor	LG 22MK430H-B 21.5" 1920 x 1080 75 Hz Monitor	Purchased For $100.00
Monitor	LG 24GN600-B 24.0" 1920 x 1080 144 Hz Monitor	Purchased For $165.00
	Total	$1564.00

Additional context for better decision suggestions: - I am located in a 3rd world country, the one with the biggest population in SEA. So the price after tax here is usually higher than the average price. - I work as a software engineer (Web Development), using Docker container to run databases and web services. No CUDA or machine learning related work. (Putting it here if you also want to suggest a CPU upgrade that I might want to do in the future). - I do dual boot (Win + Ubuntu) but now I mostly use Windows 10 since WSL2 is available and can handle my work needs. - I mostly play games like Dota 2, Valorant, Apex Legends, and non-AAA games like MH Rise, but would like to also casually play newer games. (Currently playing on a [email protected] monitor). - I want to explore several possibilities around game streaming and recording in the future (The capability to enable instant replay/stream through OBS without hindering my game performance and experience). - I prefer a non-RGB build (As you see my part list above, I am going for a pure-black colored build). - I've measured the GPU clearance with the case while considering the front panel fan, it's about 330mm. - I want to be able to get away without the need to upgrade the PSU, one of the reasons I capped my upgrade path with RX 6700 XT, the other reason is my budget for this new GPU should be around 450 USD (Could stretch it to max 500 USD if that's a must). - If possible, I'd still want to be able to also upgrade my CPU in the future without the need to upgrade the PSU, my current CPU being Ryzen 3600X have 95W TDP. It still might be 2 or 3 years in the future, but I am thinking about going for Ryzen 7000 series later (maybe 7600X ?), which will also needs me to upgrade to an AM5 socket motherboard, and DDR5 RAM. (Since computer part price around here is notably higher, I usually want my PC build to use one or two older generation part than the newest one to get a best price to performance value).
I am going to use local marketplace to buy the GPU, here's the link to the local online marketplace for both GPU available in my country (Unfortunately the site is in local language, and the price is in local currency, but you can still use some currency converter to get the price in USD): - RX 6700 XT - RTX 3070 (Higher price than RX 6700 XT by about 70 USD). - RTX 3060 TI (Similar price with RX 6700 XT).
I would like for you guys to give the GPU recommendation including the brand (to go with) based on what available locally (considering GPU clearance, color, build quality, fan noise, etc.). Several options that I've considered are: - MSI Radeon RX 6700 XT Mech 2X OC - ASRock Radeon RX 6700 XT Challenger - Asus Dual RX 6700 XT OC - PowerColor Fighter AMD Radeon RX 6700 XT - PowerColor HellHound AMD Radeon RX 6700 XT - Gigabyte Radeon RX 6700 XT Gaming OC - Pulse Sapphire RX 6700 XT
Thank you for your time and help. I really appreciate it. Any suggestions are welcome!

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I've upgraded my kids iBUYPOWER gaming desktop-WA563GT4 (2 separate systems, purchased from WalMart) with new CPU, GPU, RAM, and an SSD. Specs below...
Original WA563GT4 setup:

• AMD Ryzen 3 2300x
• NVIDIA GeForce GT1030
• 8GB DDR4 2666 RAM
• 1TB HDD
• ASRock a320m/ac motherboard (MBD)
• Windows 10

New parts purchased/installed:

• AMD (100-100000031 SBX) Ryzen 5 3600
• NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060
• CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB RAM (DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600))
• SAMSUNG 970 EVO Plus SSD 1TB NVMe M.2

Having researched these new parts for compatibility, I also read a BIOS update would be required. Not initially knowing iBUYPOWER has their own BIOS update files, I followed all the instructions and BIOS updates from the ASRock website. Didn't work. I would receive the "Reboot and select proper boot device" error. I've troubleshot so many fix actions... checking the boot order, disabling tPM, installed version 7.00 before installing 7.20, set to default bios settings, rebooted, reset the CMOS, changed the CMOS battery, restored windows files, troubleshot windows...
We did manage to get Windows to load once, and this process seems to work in this order. We reset the CMOS, then go directly into re-installing the BIOS 7.20 steps, reboot, and it loads. However, once we reboot, or shutdown for the night and startup the next day, we get the reboot error again. Obviously, this is not sustainable.
I've emailed ASRock support, and they replied stating since it is an iBUYPOWER pc, I have to get my bios files from them as their's are not compatible.
But, on the iBUYPOWER website ( Driver downloads iBUYPOWER® ), selecting category 'ASRock iBUYPOWER Motherboard BIOS'; the A320M/ac motherboard is not listed in the Select Item list.
Questions:

1. Are there any BIOS files for this motherboard on the iBUYPOWER website?
2. Does this motherboard have a fault to always read the SSD before the HDD, ignoring the set boot order? (OS is on the HDD still)
3. Also, during boot, the black ASRock page shows twice now...

Appreciate everyone's time and expertise, thank you

Linux VR is the new S&M, and PSVR is one of its strangest fetishes. You'll find yourself wrapped in an HDMI cable with a box on your head that lets you see nothing until you tell your PC in very precise terms to do what you want. I don't know what those Collabora folks get paid to do, but I guarantee you it isn't this.

The good:

• PSVR is the most ergonomic headset I've ever worn. Top comfy.
• You can get a PSVR for very little money.

The bad:

• Unlike other HMDs, setting up the tracking camera and controllers is not automatic
• Monado's controller tracking currently does PSVR a disservice - gyro drift like crazy

The ugly:

• Combining the system's limitations, setup time, and association with OpenXR, very few games make sense for PSVR on PC. The fancy new APIs and tracked controllers really aren't good for this headset right now. Installing OpenComposite and running older, seated OpenVR games without Steam is probably the best use case.

I can see a use case for someone on a tight budget to make a seated/mouse-and-keyboard VR game using Godot, but in that case you're better off getting a cheap WMR headset for the same price, which would probably be easier to set up. But if you already have a PSVR, it does work within the above limitations.
The setup guide below is split into 5 setions: Initial Actions (what you do to set up VR the first time), Recurrent Actions (what you do to set up VR every time), Automation (how to make it slightly more convenient), PSmove (trying out really buggy controller tracking), and SteamVR (exotic experiences in failure).

Initial Actions

UDEV RULES
USB devices on GNU/Linux involve a system called udev. On most distros in 2023, VR devices still need extra udev rules to tell the system to use them. Install the xr-hardware package from your distro.
INSTALL MONADO
You can install Monado from several different places, but if you want to avoid serious bugs, I recommend installing from its Git repo. To build Monado with enough features to actually work, you must first install ALL of the dependencies. Find the list of dependency packages for your system in .gitlab-ci.yml.
If you finish off the installation with sudo make install, it will install Monado to an acceptable default location.
CAMERA CALIBRATION
You need a PS4-to-PS5 adaptor to plug the PS4 camera into a USB3 port. Plug the camera in, then follow the guide located here for instructions on how to calibrate it.
ps4eye_init.py may need modification. #!/usbin/env python should be changed to #!/usbin/env python3 and firmware.bin should be changed to its absolute path. The script depends on a package called pyusb. You may need to run ps4eye_init.py as sudo.
ENVIRONMENT VARIABLE
A lot of OpenXR software relies on an environment variable to find the runtime. XR_RUNTIME_JSON must equal the absolute path of the runtime's JSON configuration file. On my system, the export line would look like this:
export XR_RUNTIME_JSON=/uslocal/share/openx1/openxr_monado.json
On other systems, it might look like this:
export XR_RUNTIME_JSON=/uslocal/share/openx0/active_runtime.json
To find your JSON file, look in /uslocal/share/openxr. Then, add the appropriate export line to your ~/.profile so the variable is assigned when you log in. Now log out and log in again.
OPENXR PLAYGROUND
The openxr-simple-playground demo is the simplest program that works reliably with direct mode. You can use this to test VR functionality after completing the Recurrent Actions.
Before you build, you need to install the OpenXR development package (libopenxr-dev on Debian-based distros). Then run the standard cmake steps:

mkdir build cd build cmake .. make 

Recurrent Actions

To avoid extending your desktop to the headset, disconnect power from the PSVR processor box any time you restart your computer.
CHECK CABLES
The VR processor and the PS4 camera must be plugged into USB3 ports. The VR processor must be plugged into your computer's HDMI port, and your main monitor should be plugged into a different port on your computer. Ignore the VR processor's TV out port.
MAKE SURE THE PS4 CAMERA SHOWS UP
Run guvcview or a similar webcam program to verify that the PS4 camera is plugged in and turned on. If you didn't set things up just right, you may have to manually run this every time:
sudo /uslocal/opt/ps4eye/ps4eye_init.py
ENTER DIRECT MODE
Direct mode. First, find what your system identifies the PSVR's HDMI device as by running this:
xrandr --prop
Make sure you got the right name so you don't deactivate your main monitor. If the PSVR is identified as (for example) HDMI-1, run this to set it to direct mode:
xrandr --output HDMI-1 --set non-desktop 1
START THE MONADO SERVICE
Open a terminal window and run:
XRT_COMPOSITOR_LOG=debug monado-service
Wait for blue lights on the front of the headset. No blue lights? See RESETTING.
If all is working, blue lights should illuminate the front of the headset and VR apps should "just work", albeit with a little stutter and without tracked controllers (more on those later). Blender is hit-or-miss, SteamVR is miss, openxr-playground always works.
RESETTING
If you need to reset your headset due to misalignment or other issues, follow these steps:

1. Close monado-service (Ctrl-C)
2. Press and hold the headset's power button to turn it off, then press it once to turn it on again
3. rm -f /run/use1000/monado_comp_ipc
4. Position the headset in front of the PS4 camera
5. Hold the headset steady and start monado-service

Automation

You must at least complete Initial Actions for this to work. For my setup, this script prepares PSVR for use by an OpenXR program such as a game, bypassing most of the steps in Recurrent Actions:

#!/bin/sh sudo /uslocal/opt/ps4eye/ps4eye_init.py xrandr --output HDMI-1 --set non-desktop 1 rm -f /run/use1000/monado_comp_ipc XRT_COMPOSITOR_LOG=debug monado-service 

PSmove

After you have tried all of the above and gotten cubes to appear on the headset, it's time to experience Monado's very "early adopter" controller tracking. You will need a bluetooth adaptor. The one in your laptop should work, or you can pick one up that advertises plug-and-play Linux support. I use a USB bluetooth dongle from Sabrent, and I would recommend it.
Bear in mind that Monado maps the PSmove controllers as basic input devices, so games that lack rebindable controls may not recognize the buttons. However, you can still see their positions in space. As of March 2023, there is noticeable gyro drift after 2 minutes of use, causing the wands to point in the wrong direction.
One undocumented quirk is that you must hold the the wands balls-up with the buttons facing opposite the camera (towards your face) when you start monado-service. Otherwise, the rotations will be wrong from the start. You may also notice lag in controller positons.

SteamVR

Tired of boring cubes and glitchy Blender? Try Steam's Linux VR games! All 5 of them! Monado includes a SteamVR compatibility layer (documented here).
A few things to keep in mind:

• I recommend the latest SteamVR beta (even though it doesn't say "Linux" in the beta name). But after recent updates, YMMV.
• Do not run the Monado service while running SteamVR (SteamVR starts it automatically)
• If SteamVR continually fails to detect your headset, you may have to delete/rename ~/.local/share/Steam/ubuntu12_32/steam-runtime/pinned_libs_64/libcurl.so.4 (background info)
• If SteamVR breaks, close it and start it again
• Properly-configured games launch SteamVR in the background so you can avoid the bugs surrounding SteamVR Home
• Critter Kart uses OpenVR (SteamVR) but is not configured to launch with SteamVR on Linux (manual work required) [1]
• Do not run Locomancer unless you want to crash your whole PC
• Half-Life: Alyx has native Linux support despite what it says on the store page, but don't even try it with PSVR
• Reprojection/motion smoothing bugs are still a problem on SteamVR Linux. The performance is generally not good.
• OpenComposite (formerly called OpenOVR) provides OpenVR on top of OpenXR, yielding better performance than SteamVR. Mileage varies depending on game.

Wrap-up

In conclusion, I would not currently recommend PSVR with Monado for tracked controller games. It could be a replacement for the Oculus DK2 if you set up OpenComposite correctly. PSVR is ergonomic and has excellent visual clarity, and even poorly calibrated camera tracking is sufficient when playing seated. However, there are far better options available.

A few weeks back I wrote that I had bought an autoloader FC LTO5 Ultrium tape drive in error (intending to get a SAS one for use with regular consumer versions of Windows; it was a two-windows-open-bought-the-wrong-one user error) and wondered if I would be able to get it to work. I didn't get any replies but I did get upvotes, so I'm guessing no one really knew, but people might be interested to know how it turned out.
The short version is, yes, I got it working, YAY!
The longer version of what went right and wrong could be useful for others who are working through any version of this in the future. (Potentially including me, long after I've forgotten it all!) The longer version goes like this.
First challenge: Getting an interface. My understanding of these drives is they all shipped as standard with a SAS connector, but HP also sold a fibre channel (FC) upgrade kit - the only evidence of which I can find is a couple of old supplier listings. Now, if my drive is anything to go by, the kit seems to be designed for professional installer use (maybe even HP's own people) and is destructive to the SAS connector. (Part of the connector is visible, but you can't attach to it). I don't believe it's possible to "un-kit" it and go back to SAS. So I had to get a FC card.
HP does publish compatibility information for the tape drives, but they don't cover FC cards (this is probably an inclusion with the FC upgrade kit doco which is nowhere to be found online). So I was shooting in the dark. But I figured a HP branded one had the best odds of being compatible. So I picked up a "HP / QLOGIC QLE2560-HP 8GB SINGLE PORT F/CARD w/ SFP P/N: 489190-001, 584776-001" off eBay, and got lucky first try - it was compatible with both the drive and my system.
Side note about my system: I bought a system specifically to run this drive and other home file sharing and backup tasks, and I got a refurbished HP Z420, a high-end-in-2012 business workstation listed as compatible with the HP tape drives. It came with an upgraded i7 CPU, budget-gaming NVIDIA graphics card, and SSD/HDD, intended as a budget gaming machine. It was AUD$350 or so. I suspect this choice allowed me to bypass a lot of issues around compatibility with the drive and the FC card, although it did create other challenges, see below.
Second challenge: Installing in the case. First I had to remove the rack sleeve surrounding the tape drive. This was screwed on, but also had cable connectors, at least one of which was really tough, so I wound up having to slide it out as far as the cables would let it, and then bend the back panel open to get it free of the cables from behind. There's also an ethernet connection on my rack sleeve that I think is used in server settings to communicate directly with the drive to troubleshoot.
Next, I had to install the drive in the Z420 case. You can only use the top two 5.25" bay slots, because any lower has the back hitting the memory. The Z420 has a system of tracks and large screws that slot in to the tracks. They actually give you spare screws, screwed into the side of the rack, but unless you know what they are, they look like part of the rack and it seems like there is no way to secure anything. (The Z420 has one side of the case riveted in place so you can only use their system to secure things each side - or, of course, get a new case). It was one of those things that was easy once you knew the trick, but took a ridiculous amount of angst to solve.
Third challenge: Cable connection between tape drive and FC card. Let me save you some angst here and explain that the cable needed is an LC-LC multimode/duplex fibre patch cable. LC is the connector type, multimode and duplex means the signals can travel in both directions, patch means (in this context) that both ends are male. Single mode tends to be a yellow cable and multimode is blue/aqua (but I wouldn't choose on colour alone). Because FC interfaces aren't aimed at consumers, it's not particularly simple to find any of this out. Also, the FC upgrade kit used to add fibre to HP drives installed two FC connectors, but only one of them worked - not sure if this is normal/firmware controlled/something or one was just broken. Regardless, when I was troubleshooting, changing ports got me further in. Also, the FC card only has a port on the outside, so I had to send the FC cable out by removing one of the PCI card cover plates and plug it in there. Fortunately my FC cable is a metre long so it was long enough to do this. Also, these cables have standards OM1, OM2, OM3, etc - completely irrelevant for this purpose. The standard relates to how far apart the devices can be, and they're all much longer than will happen in a single case, even a rackmount case. The cables come with little white protective covers on each end "pin." If you plug it in with the covers still on, it will go in partway but not lock in. That's your clue that you need to take them off.
Fourth challenge: Getting my system to use the FC card. This part was easy. The Device Manager saw the FC card immediately and showed it with a warning icon (you may need to use Show Hidden Devices to see it). I had to manually find and install drivers for it to accept it fully. Piece of cake. The main thing to know about FC cards is that underneath the hardware, they use ethernet protocols to communicate. So don't worry like I did when you see references to networking and ethernet - Windows has not misidentified the card.
Fifth challenge: Getting my system to see the drive. Getting my system to see the drive was pretty easy. Once I'd installed drivers for the FC card, the tape drive showed up in Device Manager straight away with a question mark, which means you need to do more stuff to make it fully ready for use. The "do more stuff" means manually tracking down and installing drivers.
Sidenote on what happened next: I had made a mistake a few steps back - I had a unidrectional rather than duplex FC cable in place. This created a horrendous half-working situation that kept me trying things for weeks. Various pieces of software could read data from the drive fine (eg, extracting information about the drive), but all software would crash when I tried to send info the other way (eg tape quality tests, which write data, or create a drive mapping). At this point the tape drive would turn into a hidden device in Device Manager, that is, Device Manager saw it as disconnected - not sure if the tape drive was reacting to the failed attempt and disconnecting, or Windows was doing it as some sort of fault detection/attempt at error correction.
My research in trying to solve this sent me ALL around the virtual world. I tried drivers and utilities and software from anyone who ever co-branded these drives (including Quantum, IBM, and Dell), I got a lead in archived forum discussions that Windows 10 support was initially buggy, so I installed dual-boot Windows 8.1 only to have the same problem, so then I installed Linux as well. (My machine is now triple boot). At some point a second FC cable I'd ordered arrived (I'd gotten impatient so I'd ordered one with faster shipping) and I noticed the difference in labelling and colour. I thought about it and realised that the communication was always from PC drive to the drive when it crashed, so I tried the new cable and the drive worked just fine in Windows 10. Then I did some more reading on FC cables and reverse-engineered an understanding of what was happening here. (I will have to decide at some point whether I have any need for the other two OS, but that's a decision for another day).
Sixth challenge: Getting the tape drive to be useful. For my use case, what I really wanted was LTFS, which is something that started with LTO5 which lets you mount a tape as a "drive" and lets you interact with it like you would any other drive. The required component for this is LTFS. Now, HP's tape tools utilities includes LTFS, but it doesn't really say so, you only find this out by digging in to the underlying files. Because I was scrambling to figure out my problem with communicating the drive, I was looking for this separately. I could find other brands' LTFS, but it didn't solve my problem, so I thought there was a missing piece. There wasn't, but it took me a long time to figure that out.
One thing that is really useful, though, is an LTFS configuring utility. I've lost track of whose one I'm using at this point, but IBM and Quantum both have standalone utilities for this, and what it does it create a drive mapping. If your backups routines revolve around command line scripts as mine do, that's probably all you need to make your drive useful.
Early tape drive usage was very reliant on cataloguing. Your backup would include external cataloguing so you could find content again, there was no ability to show an index from the tape itself. The change made in LTO5 that made using it as a regular drive possible was a system to catalogue the file list on the tape. It's not necessarily fast, but it is there.
At this point we're getting beyond my use case, but just to fill in a bit further, if you do need a backup solution with cataloguing capabilities, most are paid, and priced for commercial use. But there is one free option, Bacula Community Edition. This thing is a bastard to figure out on your own, but there are a few videos on YouTube that make it much easier to understand what the hell it's doing and how to use it. That would be my suggested first stop if you're looking to add a solution on top for older pre-LTO5 systems (or later if your system is big enough to warrant cataloguing).
So that's what I know at the end of my little adventure. I hope it's useful for other people on adventures of their own. Happy hoarding!

Recently my computer stopped working/ would turn on at all so I started troubleshooting. swapped out parts including cpu, ram, gpu, and power supply and it still wouldn’t turn on. I gave up and started using a friends extra pc for about 2 days until my curiosity intrigued me and i decided to test my pc again. It worked for a day and then the next morning it didnt wanna turn on. i put it away again for about 3 days and brought it back out to test and it worked for about 3 days then stopped wanting to turn on.
(Dont know if this matters but my peripherals like my mic are still lit up, i have an at2020+ usb mic) (Also i had a couple of power outages happen in the past month around 2-4 times) (pc connected to surge protector)
Tried: Resetting cmos (took battery out for 5 minutes and held power button) swapped out parts (except mobo) tested both of my power supplies with paperclip test
i believe its a mobo issue but i have no clue or experience to identify if it is
Parts:
Mobo: Gigabyte B450 DS3H Wi-Fi Cpu: Ryzen 9 5950x Ram: Corsair vengeance rgb pro 32gb Gpu: Gigaybyte GV-N3060GAMING OC-12GD REV2.0 GeForce RTX 3060 12GB 192-bit GDDR6 GPU Power supply: Corsair RM850x 850 Watt Gold Storage: samsung 970 evo plus ssd 1tb NVMe M.2 running setup outside of a case as of now for better accessibility

My laptop (an Acer from 2015) has working good yesterday, I could use my Samsung headphones connected perfectly and could use the mic with no problem, but now, seems like it doesn't recognize the headphones anymore all it shows is "Realtek speakers" and the mi integrated in the pc, which you have to be really close to use it :( does someone know how I can fix this problem? The same happens mñwith my Bluetooth headphones, everything seems ok at start but the the sound is distorted, help please

What will you be doing with this PC? Be as specific as possible, and include specific games or programs you will be using. * modded Fallout 4, modded Minecraft, apex legends. What is your maximum budget before rebates/shipping/taxes? * 1.2k When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Note: beyond a week or two from today means any build you receive will be out of date when you want to buy. * in 2 months. What, exactly, do you need included in the budget? * all pc parts. Mouse. **Which country (and state/province) will you be purchasing the parts in? If you're in US, do you have access to a Microcenter location? * California, no. If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? Brands and models are appreciated. * a 2016 Samsung monitor Will you be overclocking? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line? CPU and/or GPU? * Maybe. Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSD, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc) * not that I know of Do you have any specific case preferences (Size like ITX/microATX/mid-towefull-tower, styles, colors, window or not, LED lighting, etc), or a particular color theme preference for the components? * no Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? If you do need one included, do you have a preference? * Windows 10 Extra info or particulars:

So I have no idea where to put this question, and need some help badly, I have an aorus z390 ultra motherboard, I just installed a new a Samsung 970 EVO Plus SSD 2TB NVMe M.2, as my primary - and I also added 64 gigs of ripjaws v ram.
Now my computer won’t restart or boot up without me hitting alt ctrl del on the keyboard - then the pc seems to work perfectly fine? I’m clueless.
I tried formatting with a fresh install for the hell of it, but no luck. Any help would be amazing.
Steps: -Hit power button- -Lights turn on- -Computer sits there- -Monitors stay in rest mode- -alt ctrl delete- -Computer comes alive.- -Seems to work fine.-

From the UK. Hello.
Full disclosure to begin with, I have never built a PC before but I have this blind confidence about it and I really just want to get a hold of the parts and put it together and finally have a PC that can actually run games made post 2010. I've used Logical Increments and PC Part Picker as my go to suggestions guide, but I truly do not not know how to go 'off book' here. I just want something that's good, and worth the money.
What is your intended use for this build? The more details the better.

• Gaming - Would like to run games such as Civilization VI, Anno 1800, Stellaris, Disco Elysium, Mass Effect Remastered Trilogy at a decent level.
  
• Standard home use stuff, you know like storing/viewing photos and media (200GB-ish). Using MS Office. Searching for google on altavista.com and stuff like that.
  

If gaming, what kind of performance are you looking for? (Screen resolution, framerate, game settings)
I have a monitor already that's 2k 144hz. I guess I'd like the games to run at minimum 1440p and 60fps? That sound about right? I mean, if we can aim higher within a reasonable budget then I'm... game!
What is your budget (ballpark is okay)?
Yeah, so budget... I'm in the UK. £1000 if it's doable. £1500 if it's unavoidable. Soo.... £1000-£1500. (£1500+ if there is a no-brainer move for a just dash extra donation of £££)
In what country are you purchasing your parts?
UK
Post a draft of your potential build here:
PCPartPicker Part List

Type	Item	Price
CPU	AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor	£220.00 @ Amazon UK
CPU Cooler	be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler	£82.66 @ Box Limited
Motherboard	MSI PRO B650-P WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard	£209.98 @ Box Limited
Memory	Patriot Viper Black 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR5-5200 CL36 Memory	£74.98 @ Amazon UK
Storage	Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive	£77.98 @ Amazon UK
Video Card	ASRock Radeon RX6700XT CLD 12G Radeon RX 6700 XT 12 GB Video Card	£490.00 @ Amazon UK
Case	Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case	£79.98 @ Amazon UK
Power Supply	EVGA 650 GQ 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply	£148.88 @ Newegg UK
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total	£1384.46
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-03-21 23:46 GMT+0000

Provide any additional details you wish below.

• My monitor - ViewSonic XG2405-2 24-inch Full HD IPS Gaming Monitor with AMD FreeSync Premium, 2x HDMI, 144Hz, 1ms.
  
• Got to be a Wi-Fi build. Having to go wired would be a nightmare.
  
• Looking for a case that is understated. Just understated, clean and simple, and black. That or something that looks like it came out of Blade Runner.
  
• First ever build. So ease of building would be key along with an element of 'future-proofing' if that is even a thing.
  
• Thanks to anybody who takes the time to go through this and help me out! A thousand thank yous.
  

Hi all
Is anyone up for a puzzle..?? I could massively use your help!
So here's my situation. I currently have my own PC, some parts I bought, some parts I got from my dad, and a home theater PC. I want to optimise my PC with the parts I currently have. I have no problem swapping parts from one PC to the next.
So first my dad: he's a researcher at a university in the field of A.I. with the study on microbiotics. He bought a PC in 2021 purely for testing his tensorflow models before sending them to a cloud computing host. He bought it during peak shortage time (with outside research funding) for a whopping $3300 (so not his own money fortunately. The original budget was $3K but due the shortage there was some lenience):
PCPartPicker Part List
Read the paragraph below, I can only use the GPU and PSU

Type	Item	Price
CPU	Intel Core i5-11400 2.6 GHz 6-Core Processor	Purchased For $0.00
Motherboard	Asus Pro B560M-CT/CSM Micro ATX LGA1200 Motherboard	Purchased For $0.00
Memory	Crucial CT2K32G4DFD832A 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3200 CL22 Memory	Purchased For $0.00
Storage	Samsung 980 Pro 250 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive	Purchased For $0.00
Video Card	Asus TUF GAMING OC GeForce RTX 3090 24 GB Video Card	Purchased For $0.00
Power Supply	SeaSonic FOCUS GX 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply	Purchased For $0.00
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total	$3300.00
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-03-21 19:24 EDT-0400

Now however, his university bought a new supercomputer where he will have access to 8 Nvidia A100 40GB GPUs, so a small bump in performance. He didn't need the PC anymore, so he's okay with giving the GPU to me. He'll use the PC as a simple extra (linux) office PC for monitoring the servers, so we got to an agreement that he'll give me the GPU & PSU, and I'll give him my old Corsair CX550m in turn
So next there's my own current PC as it is at the moment:
PCPartPicker Part List

Type	Item	Price
CPU	Intel Core i5-9600K 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor	Purchased For $0.00
CPU Cooler	be quiet! Pure Rock 2 FX CPU Cooler	Purchased For $0.00
Motherboard	MSI Z390-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard	Purchased For $0.00
Memory	Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory	Purchased For $0.00
Storage	Samsung 860 QVO 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive	Purchased For $0.00
Storage	Kingston NV2 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive	Purchased For $0.00
Storage	Western Digital Caviar Green 3 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive	Purchased For $0.00
Video Card	Sapphire 21305-01-20G Radeon RX 6800 16 GB Video Card	-
Case	NZXT H500 ATX Mid Tower Case	-
Power Supply	Corsair CX550M 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply	Purchased For $0.00
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total	$0.00
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-03-21 19:35 EDT-0400

Thirdly, here's my current home theater PC that I use to play games on the TV. These are only simple story or party games with friends or my fiancée like 'It takes two', 'Boomerang Fu', 'Plate Up!', 'Overcooked 2', Jackbox Games, and some Ori and the Blind forest. Here are the current specs:
PCPartPicker Part List

Type	Item	Price
CPU	Intel Core i5-9600K 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor	Purchased For $0.00
CPU Cooler	be quiet! Pure Rock 2 FX CPU Cooler	Purchased For $0.00
Motherboard	MSI Z390-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard	Purchased For $0.00
Memory	Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory	Purchased For $0.00
Storage	Samsung 860 QVO 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive	Purchased For $0.00
Storage	Kingston NV2 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive	Purchased For $0.00
Storage	Western Digital Caviar Green 3 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive	Purchased For $0.00
Video Card	Sapphire 21305-01-20G Radeon RX 6800 16 GB Video Card	-
Case	NZXT H500 ATX Mid Tower Case	-
Power Supply	Corsair CX550M 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply	Purchased For $0.00
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total	$0.00
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-03-21 19:35 EDT-0400

Finally, these are the parts I either just got new, left over and including the GPU and PSU I'm getting from my dad:
PCPartPicker Part List

Type	Item	Price
CPU	AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor	$134.98 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler	Scythe Mugen 5 PCGH Edition 43.03 CFM CPU Cooler	-
Motherboard	Gigabyte B550 GAMING X V2 ATX AM4 Motherboard	$148.78 @ MemoryC
Storage	Samsung 980 250 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive	$47.17 @ MemoryC
Video Card	Asus TUF GAMING OC GeForce RTX 3090 24 GB Video Card	$1780.00 @ Amazon
Power Supply	SeaSonic FOCUS GX 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply	$162.98 @ Newegg
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total	$2273.91
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-03-21 19:49 EDT-0400

I don't mind spending $150 or so if that's needed to finish the puzzle, but I'd like to give everything a home in some way first :)
Very curious what you guys think!